Showing posts with label cages. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cages. Show all posts

Monday, 14 November 2011

Dog Cages

Home Pet Shop offers an excellent range of dog cages and crates for dogs that are the perfect solution for both helping keep your pet safe when you are otherwise occupied or for protecting your house either indoors or outside in the garden. Most dog cages come complete with an easy-to-clean tray or mat that fits neatly in the base and will accommodate a wide variety of soft dog beds.
There is quite a choice when it comes to size with a cage being available to suit the large majority of breeds from the petite to the huge and all have at least one door with most having two or more.
Of course dog cages are only a short term fix and should not be used as a place to leave your pet unattended for hours on end and a bowl of fresh water should always be provided no matter how long they are left for.
Most are finished in a stainless colour although there is also a new range of dog crates with a choice of either black or fashionable pink.

Wednesday, 6 July 2011

Bird Cages

The initial thing which you must consider when investing in a cage bird is undoubtedly a home for it to live. Ideally it is best to keep the bird within the cage itself. There are so many bird cages available on the market of various shapes and sizes and you've got to choose the correct cage for according to your need. While purchasing the cage one should consider certain areas of bird cages as the requirements of different birds differ from one species to another.
The particular aspects that you should consider while buying pet bird cages are:
Length: The cage needs to have good length as all birds prefer to live in large cages. It is significant for one to provide spacious and tall cage to birds as they like to fly from one side of the cage to the other.
Cages are made in various kinds of materials but one of the best materials with which you can go with is stainless steel. One can likewise have one which is powder coated steel. One should favour cages that are made from metals rather than those made from plastics as they are easier to clean.
You should likewise consider the spacing of the bars when choosing. The large sized birds prefer cages that are huge in size and that have wide bars. Whereas small size birds can also call for large type cages due to their behavioural characteristics of flying from end to end of the cage. Nevertheless, the bar spacing for small birds should be quite small.
The cage you decide on needs to have wide doors and  uncomplicated sliding trays at the bottom.
Varieties of bird cages: 1. Breeding Cages: This kind of bird cage is actually made for a pair of birds that are attached to one another although is partitioned by way of a thin panel. One should remove the panel during the mating period in order to facilitate the mating process.
2. Dome top Cages: This type of bird cage allows the occupants to fly freely. This is actually the cage which offers most space.
3. Parrot Perches: This sort of bird cages is usually for large type of parrots such as Macaws and African Greys. Parrot perches can be made from different materials like wood, rope or metal.
These are the well-known kinds of bird cage and these and many others are available at the online pet supermarket of Home Pet Shop. A number of other types of cages are the solitary bird cages, the play top bird cages and travel bird cages. You should think about the size of cage before buying it so that your bird can fit in comfortably. It is essential for one to clean the bird cage on a regular basis.

Friday, 1 July 2011

Ferret Food

Ferrets are meat-eating; they are carnivores not vegetarians! They are an obligate carnivore, which means that they must be given a particular diet that is largely meat-based and contains between 32-38 % proteins along with around 15-20 per cent fat.
For
quite a considerable time now experts have been researching and testing with what is the best kind of feeding for ferrets. The Bones and Raw Food Diet appears to be essentially the most satisfactory, if not always sensible, in terms of the health and survival for your ferret. Here is some information that spells out the concerns about ferret eating habits The ideal feeding regime is an uncooked food diet of things like chicken wings, stripped carcasses and necks, turkey necks, rabbit, all kinds of game birds, pigeons, cheap ground beef, cheap lamb, all offal, (lambs heart is an excellent one and cheap). Every ferret possesses its own tastes though. Uncooked bones are good for cleaning their teeth and the calcium in the bone is also good. They are lactose intolerant so cows’ milk is out but goats milk is in and goats’ yoghurt, sometimes with an egg beaten up with some lactose free milk for a treat will be appreciated. Ferrets also like a bit of fresh fruit, melon is good in the summer to assist them to stay cool but again, each ferret has its own fruit preferences. Do be wary of food poisoning and storing as ferrets love to hide food. If concerned about this feed in a special ferret cage that is an easy task to clean and puts a stop to hoarding and hiding. A great time for you to do this is when you're cleaning the main living accommodation out.Zero Salt, pork, chocolate, or nuts. The salt along with chocolate can be fatal to a ferret. The pork is generally not good for them and nuts get stuck in their teeth leading to mouth problems. Alternatively, a ferret biscuit such as Alpha Ferret Feast is a good idea. It is available to buy at the online pet supermarket of Home Pet Shop along with other similar ferret foods. It is OK to feed a mixed diet of raw food and biscuit although raw food is best as it drastically decreases the occurrence of adrenal disease.
Ferrets
need to have a constant supply of clean water particularly in summer because they can become dehydrated really quickly. A very heavy bowl is essential because the little monsters tip it over. A good alternative is a water feed bottle with a large supply end.

Monday, 30 May 2011

Keeping Parakeets. Part II

Make an effort to interact with your birds on a daily basis for at least 30-90 minutes. Without giving frequent and sufficient attention, they will lose interest in human communication. A pair will tend to bond with each other (regardless of sex) and pay no attention to human beings, yet through interaction, you can be thought of as a member of the flock. A way to interact with your bird is to sing with each other, give it baths and if it appears to be rapidly dropping a mobile toy, pick it up as there is a chance it wants to play a game with you. Allow your parakeet to exercise. Think about how your bird(s) can get regular exercise. Many people assume they're able to simply leave the birds in a small cage right through the day, where the birds, which in the wild fly and get plenty of exercise, otherwise become overweight and acquire fat associated disorders. If trimmed, just have a reasonably large cage with good quality toys and provide the bird some play time out of its cage each day. Manual exercise can be achieved by a sensitive throw or holding it within your hand and sensitive dragging down until finally it appears to be tired, shown by heavy breathing. Be conscientious. Parakeets are a lot of work nevertheless; you will find that they can be a loving and funny companion. Most will talk and just how much they learn is really up to you. Expect to perform some daily care, as well as providing attention and enough time to communicate and have fun with your birds, or think about getting another interest. Talk to it. Sometimes Parakeets get lonely. A good way to get them content again is to talk to them. Also, to get them to climb up on your finger is usually to push slightly on their stomach, and say "Step Up." By continuously saying that, they will begin to say it on their own, and will "Step Up" every time they say it upon reaching the steps.

Saturday, 28 May 2011

Keeping Parakeets. Part I

You should think ahead when first purchasing a parakeet cage such as the Mayfield starter parakeet cage and preparing it. Line the cage with a decent quality cage liner and renew often. Design the cage with perches, water, food and toys. Obtain your parakeet from a reputable bird supplier where the birds are seen to be very well cared for. Ensure the birds are not overcrowded on the perches, and examine they are being fed good, clean, quality food. Be sure that the birds appear happy, vigorous and in excellent condition. Bring the bird home to a quiet home and play soft music for a few days. Caged bird toys are essential to keep the bird occupied and contented.Always keep the water fresh and clean and, with the food, change on a daily basis. Let the bird get accustomed to you and the surroundings, doing nothing but looking after his food/water and cage, before trying to teach him to perch on your finger. From the start you must try feed your bird a healthy pellet diet. Some seed may be ok as a treat but sometimes it can result in  bacterial infection and, consequently too much may affect your bird’s health.
Birds
get accustomed to pellets at different rates, and at first may decline them, perhaps strenuously. Nevertheless, as a rule 90% of Parakeets will convert within a couple weeks by using the following program:
Leave pellets in a food
bowl in the cage at all times. Give birds seed for just 1 hour each morning and 1 hour at night. The rest of the time they need to snack on pellets. Generally, the 10% of parakeets which don't switch in 2 weeks will switch after a short period of reverting to a seed diet.
Add
fresh food regularly. Feed fresh vegetables such as kale, beets, peas, carrots, parsley, cooked yams, sliced apple, mandarin oranges, citrus, and so on. Food may be attached to the bars of the cage or chopped up small and put in a bowl. Offer snacks. Millet sprigs certainly are a favourite treat, but do not feed too much of it (about 1/2" per day), as it really is fattening just like junk food. Steer clear of sweets or excess oats, both of which are fattening. Caged bird products are available to buy at the online pet supermarket of Home Pet Shop.

Friday, 20 May 2011

Keeping Guinea Pigs-Part 2

If you'd like your guinea pig to get used to getting picked up and petted, it is better to begin whilst very young. A trustful guinea pig, which has been handled in a caring manner from a young age, hardly ever scratches or bites. As your friend learns to recognize you, it may start to whistle as it hears you coming. Various guinea pig accessories can be found at the online pet supermarket of Home Pet Shop.
Since the guinea pig is a sociable creature, it would rather live in groups. For those who have enough space it is better to get a group of two or more; they'll keep each other company when you’re out. Guinea pigs also like to perform social grooming in addition to grooming themselves but of course this is simply not possible for those who keep a single specimen. It's possible for instance keep two or several females with each other or house one, two or more females with a neutered male. Housing males as a group will require more room, they will need to have bonded with one another from a young age, and there can be no females present. Males are known to create a pecking order within the group by chewing one another's coat, gnawing on one another's ears, pushing their heads, raising their fur, making aggressive noises, and carry out leaping attacks and non-sexual mounting.
Unlike their wild relatives, who are most active during nightfall and daybreak when they are less likely to be spotted by predators, domesticated guinea pigs have developed a different biological rhythm consisting of extended periods of activity spread throughout the 24 hours of the day followed by short periods of sleep in between.

Keeping Guinea Pigs-Part 1

A mature guinea pig is usually 20-25 cm (8-10 in) long and weighs from 700 to 1200 grams (1.5 to 2.5 lbs). They can, in most cases, either be kept in guinea pig cages , tanks made from glass or plastic, or wooden hutches and also appear to enjoy the security offered by a nesting box. Even when given the opportunity, guinea pigs seldom venture away from their habitat except if scared by something. If they feel safe in a home they will delight in exploring more territory but sooner or later they are going to want to retreat to their home (or any other place considered equally safe). Guinea pigs use pee to mark their home and will typically urinate once they're returned to a recently cleansed cage with new bedding material. Males are known to pee to mark their territory once taken out of their cages.
Don’t
place the cage or tank where it will be exposed to drafts, excess humidity or temperatures beyond the recommended range. Guinea pigs do best when the heat level is 18-24 °C (65-75 °F) and the moisture 30-70%. People sometimes think that guinea pigs are tropical animals since they originate from South America, however these small furry creatures are native to high altitudes in which the climate is temperate, not tropical.
Wild guinea pigs are
always threatened by potential predators and this has made them, as well as their domesticated relations, easily spooked and weary of virtually all other animals. Housing guinea pigs with more energetic animals, including rats, mice, gerbils and hamsters, is not advised. There are many reports of cats and dogs learning to tolerate or even like guinea pigs, but you can’t depend on it. In lots of situations, cats and dogs will view the guinea pig as either prey or some sort of play item. Even a well meaning dog that merely wants to play may well frighten the life out of a guinea pig so don’t allow them to interact whilst not continuing to keep a close eye on them. Home Pet Shop offers a fine selection of Hamster cages and accessories at their online pet supermarket.

Friday, 13 May 2011

Dog travel accessories

Dog Travel Supplies such as travel food dishes and bowls, pet car seat protectors and dog harnesses along with some other dog travel accessories are available here at Home Pet Shop.

 We are offering a substantial selection of pet travel merchandise that are made specifically for dogs that are constantly on the move! With these pet travel supplies there’s no more reason for anyone to abandon your dog in the home whilst either you go on holiday or on a day out again!

Journeying with your pet dog helps develop a better relationship with him . However, travelling with your pet can also be stressful should you be unprepared prepared so it’s important that your dog is comfortable for the benefit of him and you and especially in the course of lengthy trips.

Travelling
together with your dog is a plus fun, and with these tremendous travel dog accessories from Home Pet Shop it really is,easy too. The RAC universal boot protector is a great travel accessory which prevents your dog from scratching your car bumper. The Dog Flask, Portable Dog Water Bottle and the Foldable Dog Bowl, are all great for dining on the move. There's a great range of dog Blankets from Arelle Product as well as Dog Towels and the Dry Dog Bag which are all great for drying your dog and for helping keep your car clean.


The Options range of collapsible wire dog cages and carriers are perfect for dogs travelling in the rear, but if that's not a choice then the choice of Car travel dog harnesses that clip to the seatbelt, make sure your dog is safe. Made from a hardwearing, robust water resistant material, the Danish Design rear Car Seat Cover is universal fitting with snap to, adjustable headrest ties. It also includes access points for seat belt anchor points and is available in Dark Navy and Charcoal Grey, with the Danish Design Paw Print woven badge, this is the perfect product to safeguard your car seating.
For hot weather, their is a choice of Window Vents where the window may be open but there's no possibility that your dog can climb out.
Making sure your dog is travelling safely is not only of importance to your pet dog, but for the driver and other passengers, too.