Keeping Cats Inside-Part I

The great cat debate: whether or not to keep your cat in the house or allow it the liberty of the wider world is one which has genuine arguments on both sides. If it turns out you do allow your cat to wander the city or countryside, here are a few suggestions for caring cat ownership.

The natural behavioural instinct of felines is to prey upon small sized animals, which, after all, was the reason that cats were domesticated in the first place. Therefore, it is not difficult to understand why a lot of owners, in particular in Europe, consider that it is cruel to keep a cat in the house. Nevertheless it is worth bearing in mind that typically a single domesticated cat, and one that we can believe is being fed well at home, will kill up to 40 animals every year. Mostly, theses fatalities are small mammals, such as mice, and wild birds.

Of course, the one method to get rid of this issue is to keep your cat in the house virtually at all times. Nonetheless, this can cause separate issues, such as monotony, an increase in weight and health complications that go with it although there are a number of cat toys to help keep them active. Consequently, keeping a cat indoors is not an entirely satisfactory strategy. So, here are a few tips regarding how to reduce your outdoor cat’s hit count.

1. Don’t Let Your Cat Out at Night time

Normally, the hunting instinct reaches its peak in the course of the hours of night. As a result, it is wise to keep your cat indoors overnight. If you are worried about restraining the cat’s natural inclination, it is wise to keep in mind that the less a cat is permitted to hunt, the less likely it will want to.

Additionally, keeping your cat inside through the night will increase its safety, as cats are usually much more likely to be hit by a car during the hours of darkness. Offering them a comfortable cat bed to sleep on gives them even more reason to stay inside! Furthermore, feral cats mostly hunt at night, so keeping your cat indoors will help prevent the likelihood that he, or she, is caught up either in a disagreement or with a member of the opposite sex!

Keeping Parakeets. Part I

You should think ahead when first purchasing a parakeet cage such as the Mayfield starter parakeet cage and preparing it. Line the cage with a decent quality cage liner and renew often. Design the cage with perches, water, food and toys. Obtain your parakeet from a reputable bird supplier where the birds are seen to be very well cared for. Ensure the birds are not overcrowded on the perches, and examine they are being fed good, clean, quality food. Be sure that the birds appear happy, vigorous and in excellent condition. Bring the bird home to a quiet home and play soft music for a few days. Caged bird toys are essential to keep the bird occupied and contented.Always keep the water fresh and clean and, with the food, change on a daily basis. Let the bird get accustomed to you and the surroundings, doing nothing but looking after his food/water and cage, before trying to teach him to perch on your finger. From the start you must try feed your bird a healthy pellet diet. Some seed may be ok as a treat but sometimes it can result in  bacterial infection and, consequently too much may affect your bird’s health.
Birds get accustomed to pellets at different rates, and at first may decline them, perhaps strenuously. Nevertheless, as a rule 90% of Parakeets will convert within a couple weeks by using the following program:
Leave pellets in a food bowl in the cage at all times. Give birds seed for just 1 hour each morning and 1 hour at night. The rest of the time they need to snack on pellets. Generally, the 10% of parakeets which don't switch in 2 weeks will switch after a short period of reverting to a seed diet.
Add fresh food regularly. Feed fresh vegetables such as kale, beets, peas, carrots, parsley, cooked yams, sliced apple, mandarin oranges, citrus, and so on. Food may be attached to the bars of the cage or chopped up small and put in a bowl. Offer snacks. Millet sprigs certainly are a favourite treat, but do not feed too much of it (about 1/2" per day), as it really is fattening just like junk food. Steer clear of sweets or excess oats, both of which are fattening. Caged bird products are available to buy at the online pet supermarket of Home Pet Shop.

Keeping Guinea Pigs-Part 2

If you'd like your guinea pig to get used to getting picked up and petted, it is better to begin whilst very young. A trustful guinea pig, which has been handled in a caring manner from a young age, hardly ever scratches or bites. As your friend learns to recognize you, it may start to whistle as it hears you coming. Various guinea pig accessories can be found at the online pet supermarket of Home Pet Shop.

Since the guinea pig is a sociable creature, it would rather live in groups. For those who have enough space it is better to get a group of two or more; they'll keep each other company when you’re out. Guinea pigs also like to perform social grooming in addition to grooming themselves but of course this is simply not possible for those who keep a single specimen. It's possible for instance keep two or several females with each other or house one, two or more females with a neutered male. Housing males as a group will require more room, they will need to have bonded with one another from a young age, and there can be no females present. Males are known to create a pecking order within the group by chewing one another's coat, gnawing on one another's ears, pushing their heads, raising their fur, making aggressive noises, and carry out leaping attacks and non-sexual mounting.

Unlike their wild relatives, who are most active during nightfall and daybreak when they are less likely to be spotted by predators, domesticated guinea pigs have developed a different biological rhythm consisting of extended periods of activity spread throughout the 24 hours of the day followed by short periods of sleep in between.

Keeping Guinea Pigs-Part 1

A mature guinea pig is usually 20-25 cm (8-10 in) long and weighs from 700 to 1200 grams (1.5 to 2.5 lbs). They can, in most cases, either be kept in guinea pig cages , tanks made from glass or plastic, or wooden hutches and also appear to enjoy the security offered by a nesting box. Even when given the opportunity, guinea pigs seldom venture away from their habitat except if scared by something. If they feel safe in a home they will delight in exploring more territory but sooner or later they are going to want to retreat to their home (or any other place considered equally safe). Guinea pigs use pee to mark their home and will typically urinate once they're returned to a recently cleansed cage with new bedding material. Males are known to pee to mark their territory once taken out of their cages.
Don’t place the cage or tank where it will be exposed to drafts, excess humidity or temperatures beyond the recommended range. Guinea pigs do best when the heat level is 18-24 °C (65-75 °F) and the moisture 30-70%. People sometimes think that guinea pigs are tropical animals since they originate from South America, however these small furry creatures are native to high altitudes in which the climate is temperate, not tropical.
Wild guinea pigs are always threatened by potential predators and this has made them, as well as their domesticated relations, easily spooked and weary of virtually all other animals. Housing guinea pigs with more energetic animals, including rats, mice, gerbils and hamsters, is not advised. There are many reports of cats and dogs learning to tolerate or even like guinea pigs, but you can’t depend on it. In lots of situations, cats and dogs will view the guinea pig as either prey or some sort of play item. Even a well meaning dog that merely wants to play may well frighten the life out of a guinea pig so don’t allow them to interact whilst not continuing to keep a close eye on them. Home Pet Shop offers a fine selection of Hamster cages and accessories at their online pet supermarket.